from Yellow Tail to J. Vidal-Fleury: my wine journey through an MBA

In 2006 when I decided to start going to graduate school, Yellow Tail Shiraz was my table wine.  Really.  I was determined to start my MBA because I felt like I had so much more to give.  My brain becomes bored easily; I prefer challenges, both mentally and emotionally.  If you were to meet the sommelier and I in person, you would know this.  He is the ying to my yang, my complete opposite, and a challenge to crack.  Countless friends and family have commented on his dour nature versus my energetic friendliness, and wondered how we ever got together.  That story, however, is best left to another post.  A true buttress of support throughout the long battle with my degree, the sommelier has endured countless sleepless nights to the sound of my keystrokes, been subjected to stressful series of exams, and dealt with anxiety surrounding such exam failures, of course which never materialized. A myriad of wine glasses have found their way onto my nightstand.  It is important to note that the wines mentioned in this post are my wine memories alone, as the sommelier has always had a completely different palate, much more sophisticated and refined.  When we go to dinner, he chooses our pairings, as it should be.

I have always been especially sensitive to marketing, and very critical as well. In 2006, I thought Australian wine was the bees knees, and (back then) Yellow Tail was sensibly priced at $6.99 a bottle.  I could drink 750ml and think nothing of it.  Just like any other 26 year old, learning about wine was the last thing on my mind.  Drinking wine, however, was another issue entirely.  Very fruit forward, with strong notes of berry and a hint of vanilla, it paired well with my night of watching HBO.  Of course, if I were at dinner I would lean toward a more premium wine, a Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Bordeaux. I loved the earthy flavors; tasting the soil in every sip, I thoroughly enjoyed my red beauties with mushrooms and onions.  I had only met the sommelier a year earlier, just bought a house, and was working fifty hours a week.  Our weekends were spent late at Soleil Bistro and Wine Bar, dancing to keyboard cruise music and drinking half priced bottles of French wine.  The sommelier had just opened a new restaurant for good friends of ours. While I would never recommend Yellow Tail to a beginner now (unless you are cooking with it, of course), it was a logical choice for me at the time.  If you are new to drinking wine, and want to start with an inexpensive light red wine, try Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages.  It’s 100% Gamay, slightly fruity, and very light in tannins. Find it at HEB for about $10.  If possible, try to find a Cru Beaujolas, as they are much better in quality. 

The funny thing is, the more you drink, the more you learn.  I find that I like to drink wine in stages.   I remember one particular stage in 2007 involving Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, which was a nice shift from the Yellow Tail.  One country over in New Zealand, “Kimmy” as we so lovingly called her, was bright, with a nose of citrus, melon, and grass.  The palate was slightly creamy, with definite green apple, but balanced with citrus acidity.  Pretty reasonably priced, she was a mainstay in our fridge, especially during the summer months.  When I see that green bottle with the words “Marlborough” across the label, I reminisce about driving to The Valley, taking time after my workday to walk the South Padre Beach, eating oysters at South Padre Brewing Company, and the smokiness of Kelly’s Irish Bar.  I would race home on Thursdays to make my Marketing class, where we worked with the Central Intelligence Agency on a joint advertising venture.  It was like having two jobs.  It was my first experience as a Director of anything.  I loved being so busy.  It was also the semester the sommelier and I got engaged in Hawaii, on a well-earned company paid vacation.  Not sure those type of reward trips exists these days, but you can find Kimmy for about $18.99 at your local HEB.  

In 2008, the sommelier and I both were infatuated with everything Truchard Vineyards, although our favorite was Pinot Noir.  With an opulent nose of cherry, cranberry, and earth, the palate was silky and round, and coated my cheeks with flavors of plum.  A nice spice smoothed out the finish.  Hailing from the Carneros Valley, Truchard is a family vineyard started by native Texans from the Columbus area.  We first visited the winery on the sommelier’s first trip to Northern California, and fell in love with all of their wines.  We adored the Truchard Pinot Noir so much that we served it at our wedding. That year, I was still traveling every week, planning our big day, and still taking one night class at UTSA.  Economics.  Because I like to be busy, you can only imagine that I did not hire a wedding planner, although you can take note that I relied heavily upon my sisters and family for support in this area.  Our wedding was complete with a horse and carriage ride to the reception, original handmade mesquite planters, an Austin Powers DJ, and unique foliage.  Even though I may have had just a tad bit too much wine at the reception (it was my one and only day, after all!), it was a success.  The sommelier and I have survived the first four years, and are looking forward to many more.  You can find the Truchard Vineyard Pinot Noir at the Alon Market HEB for $35. 

The economic downturn hit home for us in 2009.  The sommelier and I were both out of work at the same time.  And, even though I was a National Sales Award Winner, two years in a row, I was unable to find an opportunity within my industry.  My confidence was shaken.  I must have gone on fifty interviews, and was a final candidate at least three times.  It seemed to be in vain, however, because I never received an offer.  My morale sunk even deeper.  We were living off the remnants of a very generous severance and my 401K, but I needed to work.  I started lending my time to the City of San Antonio Metro Health as an inspector.  Yes you read that right.  I was that evil examiner, notebook in hand, watching every move made in the Chef’s kitchen.  Even though it was just temporary, it brought me down to size.  I continued to venture towards that degree that never seemed in my grasp.  Because I was downtrodden, I only took one class a semester.  Our habits, too, turned to frugal ways, and I started to enjoy the lighter side of things, including my nightcap.  In 2009, I started drinking Naia Verdejo, a drinkable Spanish white wine with a nice price tag.  It was surprisingly fresh, with aromas of lime and kiwi; the finish long and dry.  A very nice wine to sip in the summertime on your back porch, especially when contemplating karma, gratitude lists, and manifesting better days.  You can find Naia Verdejo at Spec’s for $13. 

In 2010 I reinvented my career into a new industry.  Still sales related, I spent my days working whilst still, yes still, attending school at night.  This year, however, I was determined to finish.  I began scheduling a full course load every semester, three classes in the Fall, three classes in the Spring, one course in the Summer. Our family had plenty of plans to follow through on, especially with sommbaby on the way.  We renovated our floors, painted walls, bought furniture, and read parenting books.  And then, when I could, in the last trimester, I had my glass of wine.  Usually, it was some sort of Syrah, while sitting in the Old Style Mon Ami, chatting with Olaf, waiting on the sommelier to be relieved of IL Sogno.  The sweet spice and leather nose of a Cote Rotie from Northern Rhone blended in nicely with the dark red décor of Mon’s.  The red cherry flavors of the wine lingered on my tongue as I slowly sipped my one weekly glass.  The sommelier would say, “maybe you should try a different wine to develop sommbaby’s palate,” but I insisted.  Syrah it was. Amazingly, I made it through my classes with flying colors, even giving birth over Spring Break.  I contribute this wine to helping me through a tough labor; just the thought of it soothed my nerves.  You can find a J. Vidal-Fleury Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde (2004) at Spec’s for $57. 

The Italian wines soon made a grand entrance into our home, and decidedly, onto my rack.  For those unaware, I have a wine rack in the dining room.  Mine and mine alone, I can drink from this wine rack only; no, I may not even dare to open the refrigerated coolers that line our pantry.  I would only be scathed with cattails beaded with corks.  So, in 2011, Chianti became my drinkable wine.  Not because I chose to drink it, or went out of my way to buy it, but because, week by week, it showed up on my rack.  “I got a good deal on it,” the sommelier would say.  So, there it would be.  And, because it really was a great price, we drank a lot of it.  Sommbaby was still growing into her own, on a three-hour schedule, and so my Friday nights turned into friendly girl dinners at home with co-workers. We would make veal Bolognese with gnocchi, meatballs with polenta, and pork wrapped in pancetta, and of course, there was always plenty of Chianti to go around.  Truly, I think the reason why I love the juicy red wine is because (at its best) it contains at least 80% Sangiovese: dark fruit, dark cherry, and leathers.  Notice a trend here?  Well, at least I’m consistent. Still, I was venturing on full-time in my course work.  I could see the light at the end of my tunnel.  Only one semester in 2012, and I would be done. Still, Chianti reminds me of friends near and far, those gained, and those lost to progress.  Unfortunately, you can’t find the 2010 Il Principe Chianti I’ve been swigging back on any retail shelf.  You can, however, find 2006 Agostino Petri Chianti, a better version, at Central Market for $48. 

A few weeks ago I finally graduated with my MBA.  So, what was on the menu for dinner?  You can only imagine the difficulty in deciding the wine experiences of those around me.  I have had my love affair with Cote du Rhone, rekindled a passion for Gruner Vetliner, and found a new fervor for Rose.  We ordered them all.  And, the year is still young. Many possibilities abound.  I don’t know about you, but the sommelier and I are ready to find a new crush, one which, in the future, can be introduced to sommbaby.  We are really looking forward to introducing her to her legacy.  Year by year. 

 

Cheers!

the best wineries of sommvacay: Opus One & Peter Michael

For the last year or so, the sommelier and I have been looking forward to our harvest trip to Napa.  Not only because neither of us have had a real vacation in more than two years, but also because this year marks a special one for the sommelier, as he is turning thirty five.   We were lucky enough to snag some exceptional winery tours, and while we were exposed to a variety of vineyards, with incomparable hosts and extraordinary vintages, there were a few that stood out among the group.   This post is dedicated to our favorites.

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Opus One Winery:  When driving up Highway 29 through Oakville, the uniqueness of the Opus One Estate is immediately evident.  The design of the grounds resembles strong European descent, and slightly reminded me of the Roman influence in Bath, England.  The limestone pillars arced around the courtyard, almost enclosing us in the morning valley sun.  The California white oak that highlighted the doorways brought a rustic American influence, and created a beautiful contrast to the hard stone.  Immediately you knew that you were standing in a work of art, not to mention the luscious landscape of grapevines surrounding the Oakville property, which still held Cabernet Sauvignon.

We arrived early, so we took advantage of the time on the veranda to take in some views of Oakville.   As soon as the tour started, our host, Caleb Dial, brought us out to the vineyard to explain how the vintners cultivate the grapes at Opus One.  For those who don’t know, Opus One is collaboration between Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi, and signifies a true relationship between French and California styles.  The one produced wine is manifested in a blend of five grape varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

What I most like about the tour of Opus One was the thorough education we received about the wine making process.  From the pruning of the vines to the chemistry of the grape, we were able to see and feel the development of the vintage.  After our visit on the grounds, we ventured inside to see the sorting of the clusters; at Opus One, this is done mechanically, which of course, increases efficiency and decreases human error.

After this process, the grapes are transferred into stainless steel holding tanks, were they are allowed to soak on their skins and begin fermentation.

Once this process is complete, the winemaker will empty the tanks into New French Oak barrels, where they are aged appropriately.  While at Opus, we were able to see the final pressing of what must and skins were left at the bottom of the stainless steel tanks, which is further pressed to create a second pressed wine, which is also aged in oak barrels.

Once all the young wines are aged and ready for blending, the winemaker decides at what percentages each varietal, as well as the second press wine, is used to create the Opus One Bordeaux Blend.

The Barrel Room was beautiful, with rows upon rows of fresh French Oak.  During our visit, the barrels were still awaiting the concoction, so the space was anticipatory, and smelled of toasted wood.   On the tangent of the area we found the most recent vintage of Opus One, the 2008 Blend, waiting for us to taste.   This particular vintage was allowed to sit on the skins for 22 days, and then aged in New French Oak for 17 months.

2008 was an extraordinary weather year for Oakville, and as such, the yield was rather small.  From what I understood from the tour, however, is that the smaller harvest can sometimes produce more robust wines, with more intense flavor.  This vintage was gorgeous, with immediate notes of black currant and licorice.  It had a dark, red ruby color and smooth, bright flavor of wine that was not too fruit heavy.

Caleb was very patient with us as we asked various questions; he was even so good as to give the sommelier some advice on the third level Court of Master Sommelier Exam.  Out of all of our tours over the four day span, I definitely learned the most about wine making from Opus One, and if the way they care to educate their clients even slightly resembles the care in which they make their wine, it is no wonder that Opus One continues to be an award winner year over year.

Peter Michael Winery:  I think we spent about an hour in the car driving North on 29, forking in Calistoga, and forging into the Knights Valley to find ourselves at Peter Michael Winery.  There was no considerable sign, in fact there was no sign at all, only a small board that read: Trout Fishing.  The sommelier turned down a rocky gravel road, and soon we found ourselves pulling in to the estate, parking next to employees.  It was obvious that this tour was private, as there was no evidence of even a public tasting room.

We met Morgan Melkonian, our host, in the winery offices, where she promptly loaded us into a passenger van.  I was bit intrigued, as we had not yet experienced such personable hospitality as of yet.   On our way up the hillside, she explained the history of the winery.  Sir Peter Michael sought out the acreage in the early 1980s, where he planned on creating a vineyard and family retreat.  As we made our way through the estate, Morgan pointed out the pond in which the grandchildren played during the summer months, the original restored cabins, and the creek that runs throughout the winery.  It was apparent why Sir Peter Michael chose this particular piece of land, the rolling hills and consistent water source make for a formidable place to clear your mind, as well as an immense return on investment.

As we drove through the vineyards, continuing to climb the hillside, our party was literally jumping out of their seats, camera in hand.  The sun was shining perfectly onto the grapevines, the plump red fruit almost ready to harvest. Some of the most famous names in the industry have served as Peter Michael’s winemaker: Helen Turley, Mark Aubert, Vanessa Wong, Luc Morlet, and current winemaker Nicolas Morlet.  The history here is impressive. We finally came to a stop at the top of the hillside, where the views were the most stunning of our entire trip.  We slowly exited the van, and continued on to learn about the winemaking details at Peter Michael.  We were shown the different grape varietals, and were able to taste some lingering Chardonnay.  All of the wines at Peter Michael are made with Estate grapes, less five percent sourced from other areas.  This makes for outstanding vintages, as these are the first vineyards to be planted on the estate.  Before Sir Peter Michael bought the acreage, the land was being used for cattle grazing, so the soil has not been exhausted with years of harvesting.

Once we fatigued our camera batteries, we were taken back down the hillside to the estate offices for our tasting.  Here we found that the winery models after French tradition, with a few modern influences.  In addition, Sir Peter Michael has made a commitment to keep the winery family owned for 100 years, and has already started to hand over the winery to his son for future vintages.  The wine that is made here is not available to the public directly, but rather distributed throughout the country and available via winery member allocations.

The presentation for our tasting was impressive, laid out for each of us in a private room.  It consisted of four vintages:

2010 L’Apres-Midi Sauvignon Blanc: immediately on the nose I experienced the flavors of honey and grapefruit; very long and elegant, the minerality was evident on the finish.

2009 Ma Belle-Fille Chardonnay:  instantly I had a sense of peach and tangerine; the flavors included a brioche and almond concentration, the mouth layered and the finish long.

2009 La Carriere Chardonnay: aromas of pastry, lily, and honey filled the nose; in the mouth the wine was bright and very mineral.  This particular chardonnay will age for up to two decades.

2008 Les Pavots Bordeaux Blend: a bouquet of black currant, cherry, and licorice was immediate, followed by chocolate and vanilla; the complexity of the wine continued into the finish, as the impression was silky and smooth.   The sommelier commented that this was one of the most well made wines of 2008 in the region.

Morgan was a gracious host and eager to provide us answers to all of our questions.  It was apparent on why she was so perfect for her position, as she tailored our tour to our level of knowledge and enthusiasm.   Peter Michael has produced some stupendous wines, and is being continually recognized as a top notch winery among the critics.  Although it is not easy to obtain retail, it is available in select restaurants.  In San Antonio, you can find it at The Sandbar Fish House & Market, among others.

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All of our winery tours were amazing, the weather perfect, and the vintages marvelous.  The sommelier and I adored everything.  Please look for my next post, a photo essay, to be published soon with regard to our adventures elsewhere.