Malaysia Day Two: spas, dim sum, and a slow show of feat.

the thing about flying around the world for 22 hours straight… it never really catches up to you. and even though we tried our hardest to sleep in, we were out of bed by 5.30 am making coffee and eggs and watching as the three children met the sunrise with such great vigor we felt instantly aged.

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we soaked in the morning coolness with earnest, for by midday the heat was bearing down on our shoulders and cheeks, filling in the color we had lost in the winter.  donning our caps and our body crossovers stashed with water, we girls made our way towards town to take in a session of traditional Thai foot massage, partaking in the local customs of reflexology and pressure points, and slowly allowing ourselves to be immersed.

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the ladies washed our barren feet and then led us to a dimly lit room with soothing music and leather chairs.  they spoke to each other in Bahasa, often pausing to look at me, and then gaze at Rhea; the woman in a top bun marveled at my daughter’s beauty and wondered if she were my child, since her hair was so fair and her eyes so green. an hour later, I was new. and tranquil. and very hungry.

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winding through the leaky streets of Taman Perling, we soon found ourselves engrossed in Malay culture.  incense and kitchen grease and  dusty clouds filled the putrid air.

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a few storefronts in, we joined the boys en masse to order Ribenas and soup dumplings and rice noodles and spicy pan fried deliciousness.

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awash in fullness from the dim sum of dreams, we spent the afternoon lazily snoozing and haphazardly swimming and relaxing admist the expats on the island.

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eventually the sommelier and I awoke to the reality of empty stomachs and a quiet house.  the crows gawking at the rising moon, we made our way to the local market where we found some Bali bream and local cabbage.  TexMexMalay style tacos emerged, accompanied by the always reliable, crisp, yet dry Trimbach.

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it was a good day. on the agenda tomorrow: Downtown Johore, temples, and fizzy drinks.

selamat Malam, friends.

Malaysia Day One: surviving jet-lag on ex-pat island.

yesterday we flew into Singapore, an astonishingly clean city with a dedication to art and beauty.

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a mix of ancient culture and modernity,  the city welcomed us in streamlined fashion: live trees cascaded our entry, the palms lining up to greet us; larger than life sculptures rose up to kiss the birds that flew above us.

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after meeting our driver, we traveled through a sea of lights, surrounded by tall buildings and skyscrapers and ship yards with modern cranes. eventually we crossed the causeway bridge to Johor Bahru, the major suburb, and were christened official tourists as the waters of the earth tried to reach the clouds in exhausted efforts, leaving everything a sea of labored blue.

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smiling faces and giggly hearts met us in a frantic rush towards the car, as long lost cousins swept away into the house.

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a lazy Sunday ensued, as cool water splashed our shoulders and the warm sun slathered us in a bright glow.  we feasted on nasi lemak, fresh fruit, and coffee, enjoying the company of ex-pats and local friends as we melted into Nusajaya.

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not to be accused of jet leg, we ventured out to the harbour to drink lager and view yachts and watch the waning sun.

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lined with western styled restaurants and sports bars, the harbour brings in upper class locals and ex-pats, freshly married Malays, and hello kitty tourists.

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we settled dinner on a Brussels beer cafe that served a variety of European foods.  and then more beer.  and billiards. and fireworks.

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as heat lightning blew up the sky, we struggled to say awake.  purple twinkle lights reflected off the warm waters as we hailed an uber.  we made it through our first day.

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selamat datang ke Malaysia, y’all.