a sunday with the sommelier at Bending Branch Winery

It’s not very often that the sommelier and I get to spend quality time together, and even less often that we spend an extended period of time all together, as a family. A few weeks ago, however, the sommelier came home and announced that he would not be working on Sunday. I marveled in the possibilities. Would we spend the afternoon at the McNay? Take the little girl to the zoo? Suddenly, there were so many activities in which to partake… and all seemed so apropos.

There was a slight chill to the air that chosen morning, or rather, the slightly less warm breeze that we can sometimes experience here in South Central Texas. The sommelier opened the sunroof, the speakers leaked a mix of Phantogram, Phoenix, and Beirut, and the little girl rested quietly in her car seat. Aaaahhhh. Sunday. We were headed north, driving into the Texas Hill Country, ready to discover some great gems in our own locale.

We opted to first eat lunch at a quaint restaurant in historic Comfort. 814A Texas Bistro occupies the former Comfort Post Office, and serves daily specials of both scratch made soups and fresh seafood. In addition, the menu boasts of an Angus Burger and Pork Hoagie, among others. I chose to start with the house made tomato soup, which was admittedly a little thin, but the grated farm cheese rounded out the flavor nicely. With a direct view into the kitchen from our table, we could watch Chef Millard laboriously sautéing my red snapper, with white wine butter, tomato, and fresh lump crab. The best lunch meal I’ve eaten in a while, it was served with creamy parmesan risotto and crunchy green beans. The dish was light, flavorful, and perfect for late summer. My handsome lunch date ordered the Angus burger, served on a Kaiser roll with a side of rosemary roasted potatoes and Chef’s honey Dijon mustard. The sommelier chose to pair our meal with the 2010 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier, with hints of tangerine, peach, and honey; the balanced acidity did not overwhelm my snapper, and provided equilibrium to the sommelier’s Angus. We came upon 814A by happenstance, and we were both pleased with our decision to dine there.

The drive from downtown Comfort to Bending Branch Winery is fairly short. The road twists and turns through the Hill Country, the valleys of burnt Texas grass, overlooking dry creek beds and dusty landscapes. We pulled into the winery: the wine tasting area complete with covered porch and outdoor stone fireplace. The interior of the wine tasting room itself was gorgeous, with a bar consisting of a tree sliced in half, and matching barstools. We were immediately greeted by the lead man behind the bar as we walked through the door. The sommelier nodded in recognition. No surprise. Apparently John, also the VP of Operations, is the lead liaison to wine purchasers in Texas, and has met the sommelier on several different occasions. I’m sure it is by no mistake that this is the first time the sommelier has taken me to the Texas Wine Trail in a very long time. This wine must be fabulous.

“Two tastings, please.” I could hardly wait. It has been since early 2010 that the sommelier took me wine tasting. Now we have the little girl. And even she was pleasantly surprised at her surroundings, researching the bar top, reaching for the wine glasses, enjoying the view of the hills in the distance. It was evident that we would all enjoy the experience immensely.

We first tasted Vermentino, a Spanish grape that is best known for its crisp citrus flavors. It was a nice start, and you could tell that the family winery took great pride in their work. I soon came to find out that the founder of Bending Branch, Dr. Robert Young, has spent many years researching viticulture and enology, and has achieved his winemaker certificate from UC Davis. It is evident that both he and his son-in-law, John ( friend of the sommelier, the VP of Operations, and also a viticulture student), are highly influenced by California and France, and are attune to the Old World Style of winemaking, as evident in their current selection of blends. Every wine we tasted was flavorful, although my personal favorite was the Tannat.

It is no surprise that this varietal stood out among all, especially after learning that Tannat originates from the Bordeaux region of France. Bending branch had two styles of Tannat: one made entirely from the new grape vines here in Texas, and one made from older grape vines brought in from California. Both were delicious, with a dark purple color and an abundance of fruit. We also tasted a Picpoul Blanc, Rousanne, and Petite Sirah. The Picpoul Blanc was also ideal for summer, known as a “lip stinger” due to its bright acidity and tropical flavors. Because both Tannats were completely sold out, the sommelier chose to purchase a bottle of Petite Sirah for our home collection.

The last wine we tasted was the Rose, like the Texas Tannat, completely made from the new grape vines here in Texas. The wine was a perfect complement to the summer heat, a wonderful salmon colored, dry wine that I immediately thought would be perfect for Sunday brunch. Even the little girl thought it had a great nose. At this point John mentioned that the winery was completely green and organic, and I thought: why don’t I see more of this wine in our local restaurants?

Well, Max’s Wine Dive in San Antonio has already beaten the local scene to the punch. You can find Bending Branch wines on their list, as well as at the The Welfare Café, Hugh’s on High in Comfort, and 814A Texas Bistro (previously mentioned here). There are rumors of Bending Branch becoming available at some local HEB’s very soon. Check out their facebook page or follow them on twitter for more information.

Of course, the sommelier gained access to a tour of the lands and production areas, complete with a barrel tasting of an upcoming cuvee that I am particularly excited about. All in all, we had an extra-ordinary visit to this small Texas winery, and after leaving, I realized that we are so lucky to have such high quality in our own backyard (Bending Branch has the medals to prove it).

We packed up the little girl, opened the sunroof, pumped up the Phantogram, and drove off towards San Antonio, leaving a spray of dry dust behind us. Aaaaaah. Sunday. I couldn’t have asked for a more flawless day.

kolaches, hickory smoked sausage, and Praha

It’s been a really hot summer here in Texas; more than twenty days over one hundred degrees, no rain, and no relief in sight.  Not exactly the picture our ranchers have been dreaming about all winter.  Fields are dusty, dry, and brown: scorched by the harsh sun.  Driving from San Antonio to our bi-annual family reunion in St. Mary’s, there are only pockets of fields with a hint of green.  Granted, it has looked this way the past few trips. The cattle lay under trees, looking thin and haggard.  When will we get a break?

St. Mary’s is a small Czech community just east of the infamous Shiner, Texas.  My maternal grandfather’s family settled there in the late 1870s; there are still remnants of the original village, including a small elementary school named after the homeland.  The Mozisek Reunion is one in which my whole family looks forward to every year.  Mostly because we get to see our extended family: countless cousins, Aunts, Uncles, and others who share in our Czech heritage. Sometimes there can be more than 200. Even more, however, because a trip to St. Mary’s means a full serving of local homemade Texas Czech dishes, using recipes passed down by generations.

This year, we had Janak’s Czech sausage for our family meal, made fresh just days before.  Old fashioned and hickory smoked, this sausage is the best tasting you can find in Texas, less you make it yourself.

You can’t go wrong with country potatoes, made simple and clean.  Boiled and tossed with sweated onions, these potatoes are finished with butter, salt, and pepper.

Every reunion one of our relatives brings garden fresh green beans; a small amount of acidity keeps them crunchy and vibrant.

It just isn’t right to serve country sausage without homemade soda bread.  My grandma used to make homemade bread on special occasions; wrapped around a sausage link with a little mustard, it’s heaven on earth.

Even the desserts are done right.

My great Aunt makes these famous kolache rolls, using cream cheese and poppy seed.  After our family meal, we have an auction to raise money for the hall rental.  Every year these baked layers of goodness sell for at least $35 each.  You can’t find this quality anywhere else.

There are so many ways to celebrate being a Texan these days; I say being Czech is one of the most rewarding.  From festivals to kolaches, sausage to Praha inspired beer (think Shiner); you can’t go wrong rejoicing in the heritage.  Every bite brings me back to the small ranch where my grandparents lived. Where cattle lined the fences my sisters and I would help mend in the summers.  Where I can still hear the locusts at sunset.  Where every meal was made with love.  This is Texas.  This is Czech.  This is our family.