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an away from the everyday at Bin555

Before we got married, the sommelier and I would go out to eat at least once a week.  Back then, it consisted of Soleil Bistro & Wine Bar, Fredericks, Bistro Vatel, or L’Etoile.  We ordered escargot, mussels and fries, steak diane, and my favorite, liver and onions.  Times have changed, however, and even though I still crave French foods from time to time, our palates have become more refined, cleaner, and the traditional food of the past have frankly, well, become the past.  It was even more evident this last Monday, as we dined at Chef Jason Dady’s Bin555 for my latest birthday celebration.

It had been quite some time since the sommelier and I had a date alone, as Rhea has been accompanying us on our latest dinner escapades with friends.  The restaurant itself was extremely busy for a Monday, as the only seats in the house were found at the cork covered bar.   It took no time for the sommelier to find wines that were of good value, as Bin555 has always been known to carry reasonably tasty vintages.

The sommelier started us off right with a Toscano Sangiovese, from a small family winery in the Montecucco DOC, just south of Montalcino.  The 2008 Perazzeta Sara Rosso was bright, lightly acidic, yet had undertones of earthiness.  It paired perfectly with our first course, a pork belly spring roll with tea dipping sauce.  The roll was crisp and light, the sauce a slight feel of vinegar.  The dish set the tone for the evening, small comfort bites revealed in a fresh air.

We moved on to the crab croquettes, listed as a traditional plate on the menu.  I could not have been more pleased with our selection.  The blue crab was cooked perfectly, blended with mascarpone, and gently breaded and fried.  The resulting croquette was then laid in lemon aioli.  My eyes could only imagine the flavor, as the crab and cheese literally melted in my mouth.  The lemon provided an extra layer of gentle acidity that brought out the crab’s flavor. My thoughts turned to the coast, and I could imagine the cool breeze and salty waters.  I touched the sommelier’s hand.  This would be an excellent night of fare.

At this point, I knew that our plates would all be excellent, one after another.  I was not disappointed in my judgment.  The rabbit charcuterie arrived next, complete with pickles, radishes, and micro greens laid in stone ground mustard.  Presented beautifully, I felt as if we should be sitting in New York, LA, or Chicago.  Did San Antonians know how flawless the marbling was in this dish?  How the rabbit and micro greens blended perfectly with the mustard?  Even the pickles and radishes were clean and fresh, local, and contributed to the essence of the dish.  Needless to say, I was already thankful for our choosing.  I could also tell the sommelier was enjoying his night, as he scooted his barstool closer to mine, and ordered a Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux.


The Korean BBQ tacos were delivered by wait staff dressed properly for the feel of the restaurant, inclusive in jeans and long sleeve black dress shirt.  In a relaxed atmosphere, the notorious street dish well known in Austin, LA, or Portland, was executed spotlessly.  The BBQ was made with kimchee sauce, and topped with sprouts, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime.  The sommelier and I devoured them as if we had just come out of Emo’s in Austin, spending the evening listening to some indie band unknown to the general populace.  I could taste the street smokiness in the back of my mouth, and could envision the night sky lit by the architecture of the Frost Building.  I found myself awakening to a glass of supple red wine swirling on the cork bar.

The sommelier knows that my favorite region of France is Bordeaux, with flavors of black currant, soft tannins, and sweet tobacco.  The 2009 Chateau Picque Calliou did not disappoint, and while we may not have normally paired this particular wine with the spicy flavors of kimchee, I was elated to find this particular highly rated vintage for such a fabulous price.  I sipped the nectar gradually, breathing in the smoothness of the fruit, and enjoying the sleek finish.

Our last small plate is well known to those who have had the pleasure of visiting the Duk Truck, as Chef Dady has been bringing filled steamed buns to our own streets for quite some time.  The duck is prepared in traditional confit style, pulled, and then arranged on a mantou bun with cucumbers.  The result? Chinese steamed buns are a new favorite of mine; doughy, plain, and light, the bun itself does not take away the flavor of the duck, and allows the cucumber to penetrate the comprehension of the dish.  I could immediately see why this distinctive snack has been so popular.  Delish!

We rounded out our meal with cheers involving tawny port, and the distribution of a highly favored dessert: a deconstructed cheesecake with sour cherries.  As far as birthdays go, I will have to say this year I spent it exactly as imagined.  With the presence of my sommelier, an escape from the everyday, and plates and plates of gorgeous food, I relished every moment.

I couldn’t have asked for more.

sounds of the Quarter at Luke on the Riverwalk

The last time I was in the hot and steamy state to the East, it was our honeymoon. It was a few years after Katrina, and the Easy city had still not even begun to recover from the
loss. I had spent quite some time there in my mid twenties, and had developed a taste for New Orleans. The old adage was still there; beignets in Jackson Square, chicory coffee, oyster po-boys, the stench of Bourbon Street. We walked along the French Quarter, tasting the spring jasmine and breathing the sounds of the quiet morning. We dined at Bayona, among others. The sommelier and I even took the streetcar down to see the Rebirth Brass Band on the other side of Tulane. Our trip was just a few days, but long enough to create a lasting memory.

Recently, I have been on the sommelier to dine at Luke on the San Antonio Riverwalk.
Here the restaurant had been open for months, and I had still to taste the flavors of a once beloved town. This past Sunday, I was introduced.

The hotel in which Luke is located is very Texan. Stone façade and big leather chairs aside, I knew that I was in a tourist destination. As we walked through the doorway to the restaurant, however, I was transported. It being Sunday brunch, a classic three piece band played NOLA inspired tunes. When I closed my eyes, I found myself in a classic Creole courtyard, surrounded by honeysuckle and jasmine, listening to the trombone and sipping on a bloody mary. When I opened my eyes once again, I was sitting at a small table in the
center of the restaurant with a gruner veltliner in hand. I looked up to discover a series of old southern style fans, run on a pulley system. I could picture the old men with seersucker and bowties slurping their midday rum punch; unfortunately, our crowd was more into Shiner beer.

Right away I ordered the meat pies with tomato sauce, although the pate and cold liver appetizer was very tempting. The food was delivered very promptly, our servers all dressed in classic NOLA white jackets and black pants. The ground beef had traces of onions, peppers, garlic, and oil, and I could taste the classic Natchitoches recipe in our San Antonio surroundings. The pastry itself was delicious, although may have benefited from a crisper skin. The tomato sauce, as it was called on the menu, was reminiscent of a Creole style remoulade, and was a perfect complement.

The sommelier and I both ordered soup, he the gumbo and I the crab bisque. The gumbo was dark and dirty, swimming with flavor, and well prepared. The bisque was thin, a bit watery, but bursting with fresh crab. What it lacked in seasoning, it made up in meatiness.

I had trouble deciding which entrée to order, as I am a big fan of both Cajun and French fare. I asked our server her opinion, and she pointed me in the direction of the Croque
Monsieur with fried egg. I went with her suggestion, although after pondering the enormity of the sandwich, I later regretted not ordering the fried oyster salad.
The sommelier dined on braised pork shoulder with rice and beautifully poached eggs, and I found myself becoming jealous of his forkfuls of brunch goodness. Although the sandwich was flavorful and well prepared, it was still just a sandwich, and I admit that I
should have ordered something more… original… more.. classic.

One area on which the sommelier and I both agreed was the disappointing service. Our server was very relaxed, with a laissez faire attitude, complete with thumbs up and
various displays of “awesome”. In the fresh white jacket, she did not belong in the confines of a proper front of house.

We topped off our meal with Nicaraguan coffee and a classic bread pudding. The pecans were slightly overwhelming, but the butter sauce danced in tandem with the soft, warm bread. The vanilla bean ice cream rounded out the flavor profile. At one point, my attention was diverted to a passing fresh cake with local peaches, and I once again began
to look forward to new order choices. Next time, I tell myself, I will order a bloody mary, raw oysters, and ….were there specials? I can only imagine what goodness the dinner
menu has to offer and am looking forward to every new food memory to come. I am grateful to Chef John Besh for bringing a taste of New Orleans here to the Alamo City, and to Chef Steve McHugh for providing such tasty fare. It may not be the French Quarter or a garden patio, but the view from Luke is as slow and sweet.