Malaysia Day Three, Part I: exploring Johore

so far, we’ve experienced this country in segue, a mild purgatory between Western and Eastern worlds. with a growth economy, available land, and a low effective tax rate, Malaysia has fast become a hub for international businesses and services, including satellite British university systems.

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there are many diverse ex-pats here, mostly from British Commonwealth countries. we made a brief visit to The University of Reading Malaysia, as the sommelier’s sister is shortly ending her tour here.

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an amazing campus, her architecture and interior design speaks volumes to the university’s dedication to its students and staff; her curves complement the natural light and beauty surrounding her, shielding her from the harsh rays of the outside world.

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after dealing with finalities, we drove across the causeway to downtown Johore, amidst a sea of soaring cranes.

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Malaysia is comprised of several states, nominally ruled by constitutional monarchies, and with ligaments resembling a federalist nation.

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the Sultan of Johor is one of only five people in the world with his own private army, one which controls in a facade of threats and imagery.

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we settled on a car park in city center, landing in a prime spot on the highest floor; the view of the city extended across the straight into Singapore, the tall buildings cascading into Johore.

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we descended into the city streets, my feet barely hitting the broken concrete comprising the sidewalks. the heat bear down on the back of our necks, the sweat rolling into our eyes, burning our vision. we climbed a small hill, and looked up to see the State Secretariat Building extended before us.

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our noses burned as we took in the airs of Johore city center, passing by store front shops, sewer runoffs, and cafes. we entered into Chinatown with enthusiastic flair and excitement, drowning in a sea of red paper lanterns.

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the street art here is fantastical, to say the least.

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we ate lunch in ravenous fashion, engulfing mee siam and chicken smoked in banana leaves, sipping on candied fizzy drinks to soothe our roasting bodies.

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the whole city lie before us. and this day, we chose to respect centuries of local traditions and pay our penance to the temples. and you will agree… that this type of spiritual post deserves its own. hence, we meet again tomorrow.

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Selamat Malam, friends.

Malaysia Day Two: spas, dim sum, and a slow show of feat.

the thing about flying around the world for 22 hours straight… it never really catches up to you. and even though we tried our hardest to sleep in, we were out of bed by 5.30 am making coffee and eggs and watching as the three children met the sunrise with such great vigor we felt instantly aged.

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we soaked in the morning coolness with earnest, for by midday the heat was bearing down on our shoulders and cheeks, filling in the color we had lost in the winter.  donning our caps and our body crossovers stashed with water, we girls made our way towards town to take in a session of traditional Thai foot massage, partaking in the local customs of reflexology and pressure points, and slowly allowing ourselves to be immersed.

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the ladies washed our barren feet and then led us to a dimly lit room with soothing music and leather chairs.  they spoke to each other in Bahasa, often pausing to look at me, and then gaze at Rhea; the woman in a top bun marveled at my daughter’s beauty and wondered if she were my child, since her hair was so fair and her eyes so green. an hour later, I was new. and tranquil. and very hungry.

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winding through the leaky streets of Taman Perling, we soon found ourselves engrossed in Malay culture.  incense and kitchen grease and  dusty clouds filled the putrid air.

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a few storefronts in, we joined the boys en masse to order Ribenas and soup dumplings and rice noodles and spicy pan fried deliciousness.

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awash in fullness from the dim sum of dreams, we spent the afternoon lazily snoozing and haphazardly swimming and relaxing admist the expats on the island.

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eventually the sommelier and I awoke to the reality of empty stomachs and a quiet house.  the crows gawking at the rising moon, we made our way to the local market where we found some Bali bream and local cabbage.  TexMexMalay style tacos emerged, accompanied by the always reliable, crisp, yet dry Trimbach.

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it was a good day. on the agenda tomorrow: Downtown Johore, temples, and fizzy drinks.

selamat Malam, friends.